Venice

Venice, it's temples and palaces did seem

like fabrics of enchantment piled to heaven.

                                   -Percy Bysshe Shelley

Venice is an amazing place —  there are no two ways about it. I visited several years ago when I was living in Munich and a good friend and I rented a car and drove through mountains of Austria to Venice. (By the way, the Germans thought we were mad. Why would you drive when you can fly? But we were up for an adventure so we rented the car and hit the road.) The scenery was spectacular and driving on the autostrade in Italy was an experience I will not soon forget. There we were, chugging along in the Volkswagen Golf we rented being passed by Ferraris and Maseratis as if we’d parked on the side of the road. I only had to lay down in the back seat a couple of times so I wouldn't panic!

When we crossed the bridge to the historic center of Venice it was magical for me. There is no other way to describe it. Venice was lightly shrouded in mist and floated on the water in front of us like some mystical, magical land. It was one of those moments where I couldn't believe what I was seeing. Venice actually existed. We parked the car and found a vaporetto (water taxi) to take us to a drop off point close to our hotel for the next 3 days. We stayed near the Rialto Bridge in a tiny, twisty alleyway that can only be described as a bit of a challenge to locate. But how delightful once we arrived!

Unfortunately, too many people vacation in Venice and don't have that same experience. Is Venice crowded ? It most certainly is. Is it expensive? It sure can be. Is some of it gimmicky? You bet. But there is another side to Venice. As a city with an incredibly long history and one that has been carefully preserved so as to retain as much of its character as possible, it is heartbreakingly beautiful. Every twist and turn of the narrow lanes and alleys of Venice opens onto another viewpoint of the city unique from all the others. Narrow footbridges cross the canals and lead to small intimate squares with tiny tables teetering on the edges of the canals where you can stop for a snack, a glass of wine, or a delicious Venetian meal. In St Mark's square, absolutely magnificent buildings show off their architecture that is nothing short of stunning.

When visiting a destination as popular as Venice, I think changing your perspective and managing expectations helps tremendously. You can't possibly see and experience all that Venice has to offer in a few short days so don't try. Rather than trying to pack a ridiculous amount of activities into a couple of days, pick a couple of top of the list " must do in case I never make it back here" items and go from there. I used to be one of those people! I didn't want to miss a single thing and so I tried to do too much too quickly. Now that I have slowed down and accepted the fact that I can never see it all, I have much more local, more enjoyable experiences. Below are some of my favorites!

My best piece of advice is to get lost. Just start walking. Get away from the Grand Canal and the Rialto Bridge (although I did buy a great pair of sandals on the bridge). Wander through the small squares, cross the bridges, and just get away from the areas so populated by tourists. You will find shops and more tucked away from the main tourist paths and it will also create a more authentic experience. And the very best part? You can't get lost - not really. Just when you feel like the warren of little alleys is going to swallow you up, a sign appears - St Mark's square - with an arrow pointing you back towards the Grand Canal.

Take a vaporetto out to Murano to see the glass blowers. I was mesmerized as a molten piece of glass quickly became a small shade for part of a grand chandelier and a leftover piece that I would have considered a scrap became a unicorn for a little boy watching in the front row. There is a beautiful gift shop with very expensive pieces of work done by these amazing craftsmen but it doesn't cost a penny to window shop and see their marvelous creations.

The question that almost always comes up when people ask me about Venice is whether a gondola ride is worth the fee. It is no doubt an expensive and very touristy thing to do, but I’m so glad we had the opportunity! It's a once in a lifetime kind of experience. Seriously, how often will you be in Venice and have the opportunity to take a gondola ride? The gondolas themselves are works of art and if you take a little bit of time to get to know your gondolier you will have a wonderful time. Ask them questions about themselves and really engage in conversation. Its a great opportunity to get to know Italians beyond just the cursory. By the time our 45 minute ride was over, we had seen family photos and learned all about our gondolier's 6 children and what a proud dad he was.  Please keep in mind that these men are asked all day long to pose for photos, act in the way WE imagine Italians to behave, and pole thousands of people along the canals. Its hard work. Take some time to get to know them — you wont be disappointed.

And be sure to have some gelato! Get a scoop or two and find a place to sit and enjoy the people watching for a while.

Venice does have its share of problems not the least of which is 30 million tourists each year in a city of approximately 50 thousand residents in its historic center, which is where everyone wants to visit. Cruise ships deposit day trippers in droves to descend on this ancient city and people (myself included) come by the thousands from the mainland to visit this unique, one of a kind destination. It overburdens the city's infrastructure and chokes some of the bridges and major tourist attractions to the point of absolute standstill.

Am I suggesting skipping Venice? Never! It is a city everyone should see, but the problems Venice faces can be a challenge. As travelers, we can help.

1) Consider traveling at a less crowded time of year. You will alleviate some of the strain on city resources and also be able to enjoy the city more with smaller crowds.

2) Be mindful of what you bring in to Venice and make sure you take it with you. Any island faces challenges with trash and waste removal, bringing in basic supplies such as food and water, and the daily strain on basic infrastructure such as roads and bridges. If every visitor contributes to the preservation of Venice in some small way, Venice will remain beautiful and magical for generations to come.

2) Head out early in the morning before crowds descend and bring congestion to the city. Being able to walk along the Grand Canal when day breaks is a wonderful spectacle as the morning sun starts to light up historic buildings.

3) See the Grand Canal and the Rialto bridge for sure but get off the heavily trafficked tourist path and wander.

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4) Engage locals in genuine conversation. Venetians are proud of their city! Be certain to show your appreciation. Having a chat with a local will add tremendously to your experience.

5) Be patient! Venice is crowded for a reason - it is stunning and definitely worth the effort to visit. Take your time and enjoy one of the most unique and magical places in the world.