how to spend a fantastic week in Guanajuato
Guanajuato City was the first place I visited in Mexico and one of my favorite places that I have traveled. This Spanish colonial hill town is the quieter, less visited cousin of San Miguel de Allende and a place I would return to again in a heartbeat. It is the home of the University of Guanajuato and as a result the streets are lively and there are a multitude of activities to choose from. The beautiful architecture and wonderful culture of this region is on full display in art, theater, music, and food. I visited in January and the weather was warm and crystal clear during the day. A sweater is definitely recommended in the evening along with warm blankets on the bed. This city is at elevation so once the sun is gone it can be chilly. Take a few minutes to read a bit of the history of Guanajuato and it's importance during the Mexican revolution before visiting. You will be surrounded by history as you visit and you'll have a much better appreciation of the pivotal role played by this lovely city. Besides, if you're going to dress up and have a mock shootout like we did you want to make sure you know who you're aiming at!
Below are 10 great things to do during your time in Guanajuato. This is by no means a complete list!
- free concert in Teatro Juarez
Not all concerts here are free but be sure to check out the offerings (see #6 below) when you are in the neighborhood. Go early though. We stood in line for more than an hour and ended up missing the concert! The love of the arts and culture is alive and well in this town!
2. funicular to the top for THE photo opp
The short ride to the top of the hill gets up close and personal with the El Pipila statue (once again, good idea to read a little Mexican revolution history!) and provides a commanding view over the city. Walk down the path and you are quickly back in town.
3. try mezcal at Clave Azul
Lots of people have come to discover Clave Azul tucked in a narrow alleyway off the Plaza de San Fernando and sadly some think it has become too touristy. This is not the kind of place where you order a frozen margarita. If you are a "go with the flow" type then you'll be just fine. This place makes their own mezcal in a murky glass jug kept under the counter and those in the know order that and local beer. Do so and you will endear yourself to the barkeep. Roy and I had a fantastic time here (all 3 times we visited in one week!) and the botanas (snacks) served with every drink are simple and yummy. There was even an impromptu concert with some locals playing guitar and singing folk songs at a corner table.
4. tour the city with callejonedas
If you are near Jardin de la Union in the evening these young men are hard to miss. Dressed in traditional troubadour costumes and carrying instruments, they sign people up for a musical, singing, storytelling, walk around Guanajuato. They are very funny and friendly and you're sure to have a good time singing your way through the streets in the evening. ( Not so sure how the neighbors feel about that!) The tour is all in Spanish but you can still get the idea of the stories and locals are happy to translate if your Spanish is a bit rusty. You will end up at the Alley of the Kiss. Be sure to take your sweetheart for a smooch and make certain you get a picture on this famous, narrow stairway for good luck. This is a great evening of fun entertainment that is suitable for the whole family.
5. visit the Diego Rivea museum
This small museum is in the birthplace and home of one of Mexico's greatest artists. The first floor of the house is as it would have been when he lived there and the other floors contain his sketches and drawings as well as a reproduction of one of his stunning murals. It also houses offerings from up and coming young artists. What a great tribute to Mexican artists to promote them in this lovely museum.
6. people watch in the Plaza de la Union
The Jardin is THE place to be in the evening. The are mariachis to serenade you and folks selling all kinds of items. Restaurants and bars have tables on the square where you can have a drink and a bite to eat.The calleonedas are across the street (see number 4) and the Teatro Juarez (number 1) is nearby.
This is also the place to get information about all that is going on in town. There are placards advertising upcoming events and the week we visited we had our choice of concerts and plays from college offerings to professional productions. You will not lack for cultural experiences while in Guanajuato!
7. have lunch in the mercado
For a truly local experience, find the lunch counter in the Hidalgo Market and order the plate of the day. Simple delicious food is what you'll get for just a few dollars and you'll be fortified for whatever happens next. You'll get to rub elbows with the locals and trust me, you've not seen lunch ladies like these before!
8. ride the bus to Presa de la Olla
Promise me that if you go to Guanajuato you will ride a local bus at least once while you're there! What fun. You rattle down the street ( I think shocks are optional on these buses) and one bus that I was on had a piece of plywood covering up a hole in the side large enough for me to put my arm out through. Having said that, the locals could not have been more kind and helpful making sure we got on the correct bus and had a seat. They pointed out where to get the best coffee and pastry on the street while we waited. Once you get to de la Olla, have a stroll around or a paddle out on the water. It's a nice, tranquil spot to visit for an afternoon.
9. get take out at Pollo Feliz
The happy chicken! This chicken takeout is actually a chain. We tried several of them during our time in Mexico and this one is the best. The little walkup window allows the delicious aroma to waft onto the street and was what convinced us to stop at this very unassuming spot. You can watch the 1/2 chickens being grilled and that young man is busy! Make sure to go early though. When they are out of chicken they are done for the day. Trust me, it is a huge disappointment if you climb up the hill and they have closed. The chicken is tender and juicy and the tortillas are made while you wait. Roasted onions, jalapeños, and salsa are included. Just delicious and a great bargain.
10. have a snack at Cafe Tal
If you need a great cup of coffee or feel like just relaxing for a bit, head to Cafe Tal. Great pastries, particularly croissants, and a ridiculously good cup of hot chocolate provide a great break. Also a perfect spot if you are in need of an internet connection. Be sure to sit upstairs by a window if you can. The windows are open and you can look down on the street and watch passersby.
I've only listed 10 ideas here and there is so much more to see and do in Guanajuato. Have you visited? What are your favorite spots? I'd love to know!
